ruff

Of Fiſhes thoſe we feed on in England, are either ſcaled, as ſturgian, ſalmon, grailing, ſhuins, carps, breams, the barbel, mullet, pike, luce, perch, ruffs, herrings, ſprats, pilchers, roche, ſhads, dorry, gudgin, and umbers;[…]

It is not clear which species of fish is referred to in this work.]

In the same genus there is another species which makes better eating. This is A[rripis] georgianus, popularly known as the ruff or tommy ruff (again, nothing to do with anything bearing that name in the Old World), but now officially called 'Australian herring' (another aberration). … The ruff, on the other hand, although a smaller fish, makes good eating; its flesh is tender and tasty.

A Ruff, or Sea-bream. Melanurus.]