But for the bread to be lucky, you have to cut a cross on the top “to let the devil out,” as well as to release steam during cooking, a superstition that both the Irish and Irish Americans hold, Kinealy says.

Pop-ups often charge restaurant prices, but without advance menus, quality control, health-inspected facilities or professional service. Bring cash and arrive early: most pop-ups don't accept credit cards, and popular dishes run out fast.

As they approached the steps the Klee-shaes could hear a terran favorite over the great building's Public Address system—it was Neil Young warbling Keep On Rocking In The Free World, but a Fartian host, misunderstanding the moment, transferred the track to Mollify.

The pitchman swept his cane in a slow acceleration over the heads of the crowd and then suddenly pointed the silver cap toward Billy and the shill.