After an initial stay of five days in Beijing, I was scheduled to visit Dazhai Production Brigade in Xiyang County of Shanxi Province.

I came up with a menu to showcase the alliums in several manifestations: raw, quickly sautéed and slowly confited.

The whole apparatus consists of three parts: an electrothermometer in a plastic case, a set of 8 detectors, and a switch for alternately connecting the detectors and taking their temperature readings.

Folding chairs had been placed at prudent distances, and masks were dutifully worn. An Australian Labradoodle belonging to the home’s owners strutted among the guests. Despite the breezy suburban tableau, the occasion was fraught.