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He moved with a befitting grace.

Seafood features prominently with the plateau de fruits de mer at £14.50, as do the grilled dishes, such as poussin with rosemary and garlic or rabbit with prosciutto and herbs, cooked on a rôtisserie visible from the restaurant behind a bronze-framed window.

There, look, Mr. Horne! Vada that great butch lucoddy!