Amid them, he offers definitive, simple and deadly effective recipes for brisket and cholent; crispy, sweet mandelbrot; Romanian broilings of various sorts; chopped liver and borscht; even fantastic if anti-kosher crossover meals like the Chinese roast pork sandwich on buttery garlic bread that came down from the Catskills in the 1950s to take up residence on the menus of family restaurants across the southern tier of this city.