Male clothing was worn in layers of a tunic, cote, or cotte with a surcoat over a linen shirt. […] a long sleeveless tunic. When sleeves (and sometimes a hood) were added, the cyclas became a ganache (a cap-sleeved surcoat, usually shown with hood of matching color) or a gardcorps (a long, generous-sleeved travelling robe).

She is in her Moods, and her Tenses: / I'll Grammar with you, / And make a trial how I can decline you

Your real sea-dog will give his eye-teeth for a glass of grog; it is a fact, that many a tooth has been drawn in exchange for rum.

So the moment he cannot employ cheap Ah Tiong slaves from PRC he decides to close shop.