Last Updated:2025/11/20

The swell looked terrifying, but the old-timers just smiled and said, 'Eddie would go,' as if that alone were the encouragement everyone needed to paddle out.

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The swell looked terrifying, but the old-timers just smiled and said, 'Eddie would go,' as if that alone were the encouragement everyone needed to paddle out.

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うねりはものすごく恐ろしかったが、年配のサーファーたちはただ笑って、まさにエディのような人が挑む波だと言った。その言葉だけで皆は岸を離れる勇気を得た。

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